원정 개요

Summit 14th Oct: from C3 6300m 4:00 am; on top 1:00 pm and stayed 25 min and returned 5:00 pm.

Summiters: 14 Oct:
Rinus Lamers
Roland Zeyen
Ang Temba, 24

18th Oct at 4:00 am left C3 and near top 13:30 hrs and returned to C3 same day. Weather was good. Left BC 21 Oct.

Near Summiters: 18 Oct:
Miss Fredrick Bloemers
Claude Zeyen


Claude & Roland Zeyen - 30 Oct 82

C1 - at 5300m to 5350m.
C2 - 5850m established 5 Oct.
C3 - took time to establish at 6400m with small icefall first which is due to the climb. Others went thru center of it, but Dutch found step towards western side which led to foot of dome. This step of ice which they called "banana" made ascent possible. Then dome required fixing rope and from down a bit and up. C3 established 13th Oct at 6500m after several temp C3's.

Found other's fixed rope. Route was S Ridge and some on S Face. 18th Oct 2 "summiters" were just below summit (50 to 100m vertically below) hit by jet stream and unable to go all the way to summit. This expedition's last last day unfortunately and only day of bad storm in morning.

7 Sherpas above BC: 5 did the job and 2 others occasionally climbed. Went very smoothly with no problems, accidents a frostbite.


Claude Zeyen - 15 Sept 82

Others arrived 20th Sept.Leave 21 or 22 Sept by road to PKR, walking via Beni and Gurjakhani to Kaphe Khola.

BC at 4300-4400m, east or northeast of point 5490m on Japanese Dhaulagiri map.

3 high camps with C3 at 6200m; perhaps cave above this camp which is north of what Germans call the Dome.

Route = S Ridge to S Face, basically Japanese 1972 route but taking shortcuts on Japanese devious route and going more direct (Germans in 1978 Autumn and 1979 Autumn also). Arrive BC 2 or 3 Oct.

Summit 15th Oct for first summiters.
3 Sherpas above BC and possibly sirdar.
All home be back in KTM by 29 Oct.
2 medical oxygen only (not for climbing or sleeping).