원정 개요

Herman Tollenar - 5 Dec 82

Reached 7800m in 2nd week on Oct via old British route. Hit by violent weather (wind and snow) especially wind and quit.

Had avalanche accident just below N Col. Dutchman (Dijk) hit badly and took 4 days to get him down to BC with very great difficulty; 2 crushed ribs which perforated lungs. Expedition lost a week's climbing over this. No one killed. Had no Chinese assistants.

Differences of route soon ceased when got above N Col and all agreed must go by standard route if they were to succeed at all.


Denis Bertholat - 29 Sept 82

2 weeks ago 17-member Dutch expedition had placed C5 above N Col (C4 on col) and were going well despite avalanche injury below/near col to 2 members.

Younger members wanted to repeat Messner's route while others to use std NE Ridge route.

Leader = Alexander Verrijn-Stuart.

Bertholat was at BC 2 weeks ago with Mrs. Boardman and Tasker's girlfriend.


John Lindemam - 14 Sept 82

Dutch expedition reached north side of Everest in early September (left Holland in August). A strong national team sure to succeed. (Lindermam has just come from Holland).