원정 개요

Mesaric - 24 Oct 82

Had permit for new route from southeast, but advance party saw approach to southeast impossible for porters without big rich expedition's building trail and bridges, so went to West Ridge same route as Germans (in upper parts found fixed ropes of Japanese).

BC and C1 established 30 Sept
BC = 3600m and C1 4800m
C2 established 5 Oct at 5800m
C3 " 11 Oct at 6300m
C3 = highest camp
Summit on 12 Oct by Mesaric, Bozic and Separovic
C1-C2 - 100m-120m fixed rope
Most difficult part = very steep ice, seracs and crevasses just below C3; no ropes here.

From 6800m Separovic made ski descent and from 6200m Bozic ski descent and from 5300m three more made ski descent to end of snow at about 5000m.

13 Oct cleared mountain; another summit team ready to go to top decided not to do so for unexplained reason.

No illness, accident or frostbite.

3 arrive KTM 23 Oct; another 3 have gone to recce Manaslu for next years climb and 4 to search for Yugoslav who disappeared on Pisang.


Shyam, Tourism - 14 Oct 82

West route. Started 8:00 am from C3
12 Oct 3:00 pm summit by
Vladimir Mesaric, 1949
Branko Separovic
Stipe Bozic
Weather good
30 minutes on top and ret to C3 at 6300m (established 11 Oct)
16 Oct leave BC for KTM.


Mesaric & Bozic - 17 Sept 82

Ski descent from summit if possible in which case route=East Face = new route - couldn't get any photos of this face so not certain of skiing possibility on it. 2 men go in advance to see and if skiing not possible go to Japanese Spr 1982 West Ridge.

Hope leave 21 Sept by bus to Dumre and then on foot via Marshyangdi to BC which will be on east or west of mountain depending on skiing conditions on East Face (no skiing via West Ridge).

One fixed camp at least on either route perhaps more depending on conditions on face.
No Sherpas above BC.
No oxygen at all unless can buy couple tanks in KTM.