원정 개요

Kim Young-Han - 19 Nov 82

Planned route very difficult and dangerous. BC was at 5200m, established 26 Sept on Lungsamba Glacier.

Above BC avalanche from Cho Oyu side very dangerous and covered glacier so could not move above BC on planned route but shifted close to original printed route plan

C1 - 5700m Oct 5
C2 - 6450m Oct 16
C3 - 7000m Oct 27
C4 - 7260m Oct 31

From C4 to top blue ice covered by new snow, very steep, all front-pointing
C2-C3 3 days heavy snowfall continually (here big crevasses)
C1 to C3 time spent searching good route
Summit Nov 2 by 2 Sherpas and 1 member as reported by ministry
Again bad weather after Nov 2 so no more attempts due to snowfall and wind
Fixed rope used 5000m on all route except only 1/2 C1 to C2; BC to C1 all way; C4 to top 400m.

French Belgium did not succeed because not enough equipment including rope and not enough food. Between C1 and C2 was hanging glacier and worried about this but not other route.
No accidents or frostbite
No oxygen used
10 Sherpas above BC

This definitely 1st ascent of main summit. Japanese themselves recognise climb 20 years ago was of Ngojumba II (Ngojumba Central).

Most difficult climb Kim has ever done; he reached summit 1/2 hour after 2 Sherpas because has a "disease" that prevents his moving fast.


Sharma, Tourism - 9 Nov 82

Korean-Nepal Ngojumba - east side
2 Nov Ang Tshering Sherpa (25) and Dorje Sherpa (25) reached summit 17:30;
18:00 Kim Young-Han.
No further attempts
BC 3 Oct 5200m.


Chapelle, Belgium - 26 Oct 82

When left BC 17 Oct Koreans were at perhaps 6800m below C2 west of French-Belgians.

Kim - 14 Oct 82

Last 2 members leave KTM in next four days, many RNAC charter cancellations. 9 members are now on mountain and making route to C3.


Kim - 26 Sept 82

Baggage arrives Birgunj today. Flights to Lukla on 30 Sept to 2 Oct; some members on 30th flight, same (including Kim) on 2nd.


Park, Kim - 29 Aug 82

Korean route is on South Face to point on ridge west of Ngojumba I
BC at 5200m or Lungsampa Glacier
4 or 5 camps above; with shortage of time may make only 4 with C2 still on face.
All members arrive BC 5 Oct
Summit after 40 days climbing - must have extension from HMG
Ngojumba face very steep (60-65 degrees), 7000m fixed rope
Pemba Tshering = Nepalese leader (was on Spain Everest expedition)
3 Nepal members = Sherpas
8 high altitude Sherpas
Medical oxygen only
Advance party leave KTM 3 or 4 Sept, rest about 15 Sept; baggage still at sea.