원정 개요

Wojciech Kurtyka - 20 Aug 86

Czok's ridge on Makalu in Oct 1982 was much further to right than Kukuczka's route on West Face in Oct 1981. Czok's was more direct towards summit, Kukuczka's really a spur short-cutting ascent to normal route's C3 to normal route's C3 and thence Kukuczka followed normal route.


Czok, Glinski and Janusz Skorek - 31 Oct 82

Polish-Brazilian Makalu

BC - 5400m - 30 Aug
C1 - 6000m - 26 Sept
C2 - 6600m - 11 Sept (all 3 Brazilians reached C2 and no higher)
C3 - 7100m - 19 Sept
C4 - 8000m - 7 Oct on the NW Ridge

Czok alone to top on 10 Oct; had reached C4 with 2 others [Skorek and Machnik] in evening of 7 Oct. [Czok and Skorek] slept using oxygen that night and [all three] 8 Oct tried to go to top but terrible weather wind after one reached 8100m [and Machnik turned back]. Janusz Skorek had frostbitten foot so he and Czok turned back 100m from top. So other 2 went down [to lower camps] while Czok waited for wind to die. Czok slept 2 more nights at C4 in this wait without using oxygen; thus slept 2 nights alone and was entirely alone during days as well. On summit day 10 Oct went to top and then to C3.

On top found bamboo without flag, which bamboo was covered by snow. 20m below was bare rock where found old oxygen bottle probably originally yellow but now rusted; tied Polish flag to bottle.

No other summit attempt, all tired.

Most difficult part was especially above C3 to ridge and also small parts between C2 and C3 and nearly vertical very steep 100m of ice above C2. Szulc was climbing fixed ropes and suddenly man above him realized Szulc not responding. Death probably from altitude effects [or heart attack, Josef Nyka].

Sirdar went to C1 several times; he only one above BC.
4 arrived KTM Friday, others come 3 or 4 Nov.
Brazilians need much more experience, were good on snow only; got only to 6600m.


Cherrey - 10 Aug 82

Polish-Brazilian Makalu discussed with Japan Makalu possibility of descending via Japanese route.


Haim - 5 Aug 82

Haim and his 2 collegues believe they are first Brazilians to climb in all Himalayas from Pumori east. Haim has searched his alpine climb's records since its founding in 1959; definitely none on Argentina Dhaulagiri teams in 1950's since they were army expeditions.


Bilczewski & Glinski - 27 July 82

Polish Makalu
3 arrived 16 July Polish
14 to come to Nepal; truck to Biratnagar only
3-4 Brazilians (including 1 Polish-born)
2 Poles late Sept and Kukuczka and 1
Leave KTM 5-10 Aug. Those in KTM go by bus to Dharan; 18-20 days to BC.
Route = West Face right side of face, same as Kurtyka's 2 times which reached
maximum altitude 7700-8000m, only 70m above rock band (unclimbed route)
BC probably same place as over half of expedition members have been over 8000m
BC about 5300m
4 camps above BC to bottom of wall at 7800m or so
Arrive BC about 1 Sept
Summit about 15 Oct
Oxygen for climbing in C4; very difficult to use while fixing rope.
No Sherpas above BC probably although Ang Kami sirdar may get to lower camps
carrying loads
Polish-Brazilian Himalaya Expedition Makalu 1982
Stay in red house on return to KTM.