원정 개요

Stefan - 29 Oct 82

From C3 at 6450m, 1st party went to lesser peak (North Summit [Dome at 7450m]) on Oct 15 (Amstutz, Wehinger and Bell).

16 Oct moved C3 to 6800m while Yugoslavs to about 7000m.

17 Oct 3 members went to North Summit and 3 members and 2 Sherpas on to Main summit.

Route was same NW Ridge route as Germans 1st ascent.


Alikalfic - 26 Oct 82

Arrive BC 3 Oct at 4670m at usual site.
Route = NW Ridge
C1 - 5300m
C2 - 6000m just behind ridge
C3 - 6500m at 1st - then moved upwards to 7000m on 16 Oct.

Summit 17 Oct by Alikalfic, Bago, Wolfgang, Pemba Lama and Ang Nima.

Some members 1 Swiss and 2 Austrians (Willi, Bell, Amstutz) went to col behind summit in summit push; started from 6300m too far away on 15 Oct.

Not difficult climb but problem of snow, dangerous snow, many avalanches; no serious avalanche accidents ,but hard work climbing in deep snow.

1 member Bell frostbitten foot.

No more on top because when 2nd (and only successful) summit party came down it was time to leave mountain.


Pichler - 21 Sept 82

By road to Dumre today; 9 days to BC near Hongde airfield in Manang.
Route probably same as 1st ascent by Steinmetz in spring 1955.
BC 3800-4000m
ABC near 4500m
C1 on shoulder above steep ridge and other camps, not sure how many.
3 Sherpas above BC.


Stefan - 21 Sept 82

Route probably NW Ridge; from north definitely but exact route will be decided when get to mountain.
15 members, all leave today.
9-10 days to BC at about 4000m.
Probably 3 camps above BC.
1 or 2 Sherpas above BC.
Medical oxygen only.
Return to KTM 29 Oct.