원정 개요

Lee Sung-Ryul - 19 Oct 82

Route was South wall direct, right side of French Ridge
BC 19 Sept 4220m
C1 21 Sept 5000m on wall
C2 26 Sept 5700m
C3 1 Oct 6360m

4 Oct 1st attack but not enough fixed rope and took long time so put in more rope and returned. 5 Oct same men went up again and reached top: Ajiwa Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa and Lee Sung-Ryul.

Face was very steep ice wall and thus very difficult. 3500m fixed rope total BC top. Many avalanches between C1 and C2 but did not hurt any Koreans.

1 Sherpa has broken leg falling into crevasse; was trying to climb without fixed rope after avalanche had taken away rope and and he slipped 35m.

Caravan route difficult. Had to make 6 bridges and Japanese had to make same too.

No other summit attacks because all had headache from such rapid climb and not acclimatized.


Ang Gyalgen - 8 Oct 82

Message he is giving to Tourism:

5 Oct 2:30 pm on top:
Lee Sung-Ryul
Dorje Sherpa
Ajiwa Sherpa

South Face route changed to South Ridge by which succeeded. Stayed 30 minutes on top and took Korean and Nepal flags.


Kim - 24 Aug 82

Ganesh IV cargo coming by sea delayed reaching CCU (Calcutta). Now due to arrive KTM 2-3 Sept and expedition will leave KTM for Ganesh IV 5-6 Sept (they are now in Pokhara).


Kim - 8 Sept 82

Cargo ship still delayed; now expected in CCU 12 Sept.


Choi & Joo - 13 Aug 82

Original plan to repeat Japanese 1978 route, but now think repeat French ascent via South SW Spur up and down SE Ridge/South Face or up South Face to right of French ascent route.

1 member in CCU, arrives KTM about 17 Aug; another journalist arrives 14 Aug; all others arrived 29 July and 7 Aug.

Leave KTM about 22 Aug by road to Trisuli and thence on foot to BC in 13-15 days. Arrive BC about 6 Sept.

1 month to summit, perhaps 2-3 weeks

BC 4300m
3 camps above BC: C1 5100m, C2 5800m, C3 6500m
8 Sherpas above BC
Medical oxygen only