원정 개요

Beghin - 10 Nov 82

Beghin and Muller arrived this am and 2 more after 4-5 days. High point at 7100m on 16 Oct and again 23 Oct. Berhault left at beginning because did not like route's danger and perhaps not an expedition man and did not realise dimensions of Himalaya. This departure bad for expedition of 6 members and only 2 Sherpas who not interested in difficult climb in cold. Bretin left BC 24 Oct to return to his job.

Big problem was very bad weather in Oct. Heavy snowfall in mid-Oct brought very deep snow and avalanches. Then LO said expedition cancelled because expedition took such long time. Perhaps could have reached summit. Did not follow Japanese route because wanted go direct. But summit wall not possible, for such small light weight team in autumn so tried to reach NE Ridge. "I have never seen such a wall in 1000m high and last 500m completely overhanging." In Sept 1-2 hours sun and in Oct no sun at all on North Face which is so very steep.

No accidents, frostbite. Not dangerous; so very steep snow does not collect, rock face; some powder snow avalanche but not heavy snow. Problem: cold and steepness. Japanese route very dangerous because of seracs.


Sharma, Tourism - 26 Oct 82

16 Oct reaching 7000m, because of heavy snowfall and bad weather abandoned on 23 Oct. All well. Leaving BC Nov 1.
(C3 at 6800m already on 2 Oct)
(1 member left early).


Ale, Tourism - 10 Oct 82

Beghin and Dr. Fargeas 2 Oct pitched C3 at 6800m.

C2 on 23 Sept at 6100m by Claude Beghin, Gerard Bretin and Bernard Muller.


Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

Member Patrick Berhault (25), with leader's approval, abandoned following dispute over too much work for him.


Beghin & Bretin - 17 Aug 82

Route = North Face direct (Japanese in 1976 went via NE Ridge to North Face). Direct route = very difficult route technically. Last part 2200m very steep (perhaps vertical, no snow). Before this 1000m pillar and then flat and then 2200m face of ice and then rock (good hard granite and same gneiss rock). North Face = very cold, no sun at all (Wall of Shadows).

2 arrived 14 August and other 4 will arrive on 19 Aug. Leave KTM 2 Aug by road to Dhankuta. 15-16 days from Dhankuta to BC via Ghunsa village and Jannu Glacier on north side of Jannu.

BC 4500m
C1 5500m - at top of pillar
C2 6300m - snow field
C3 6800m - at beginning of last rocky part
Biv = hanging camp on very steep upper part of face

Arrive BC 7-8 Sept. Must go very fast in 1st part because on north side very cold but very difficult higher up. Hope for summit by 15 Oct. 2 Sherpas above BC to C1 only because above there too difficult. No oxygen at all.

Brochure says: The most difficult wall in the world never attempted. Jean Franco: "It is one of the highest walls on earth; no one will ever come that way."