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Lemoine - 1 Nov 82

BC 5300m near lake of southwest of point 5327m south of Pumori on 27 Sept.

Acclimatization for 15 days climbing on sides of Pumori and to see route and to put tent at 6200m and down again.

14 Oct began push upwards via South Ridge. Took 5 days to 100m below top. Last day very bad weather but 1st 4 days nice weather.

18th bad weather day. Decamp and Lemoine to summit with compass; left big plate of chocolate for Americans.

19th Decamp again to top [from C1] in slightly better weather with Faivre. Mevellec went near summit but had headache and turned back, not so easy as expected.

South Ridge: some technical problems in various places on route; rock problems, same artificial pitches, but safe route. No avalanche danger. Pleasant route and had good luck.

No accidents, frostbite
No Sherpas above BC, no oxygen
No fixed rope


Sharma, Tourism - 24 Oct 82

French Pumori via South Ridge
18 Oct 12 noon arrived top from C4 (altitude not known):
1) Erik Decamp (leader), 1954, mountain guide
2) Jean Francois Lemoine, 1948, Champagnole

19 Oct leader again to top with Pierre Faivre, 1954, at 8:00 am on top.
All arrive BC 21 Oct and all well. No information on 4th member's not going top.


Ale, Tourism - 8 Oct 82

C1 pitched 4 Oct at 16:00 hours by leader and all 3 other members.


Decamp, et all - 12 Sept 82

All leave KTM 14 or 15 Sept by road and foot.
Route = South Ridge, probably same BC at Gorak Shep about 5000m.
Alpine-style ascent, no camps above BC, no Sherpas, no oxygen at all.
Most difficult part: steep section at about 6500-6700m (mixed rock and ice).
Arrive BC about 1 Oct.

Summit 20 Oct after 15 days acclimatization climbing and walking descend by East Ridge. So will climb this ridge to 6000m or more to have a look at this feature before making summit push. No skiing.

Pumori 1982

Maybe stay at Hotel Shakti on return, maybe near GHA.