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Chatrefou - 16 Oct 82

7 Oct at 2:00 am big avalanche came down 2000m above C1 and C2 covered in 1 meter snow (C1 = 2 tents with 2 men). Whole valley covered by pieces of ice from serac; people in C1 thought they would die and were there 1 hour but one man with crampon cut tent and got out and helped other man out of his tent. Philippe walked over other's tent under mound of snow, other heard his footfall and other cried out. Philippe found ice pick, dug him out by 4:00 am. By 6:00 am got out equipment and went down towards BC while men from BC came up to help. Another avalanche came down same route and if had been higher would have been hit. Decided to stop expedition because continuous avalanching. No safe place on this route via 1600m high Langtang Glacier. Left BC 3 days later. If no avalanche on 7 Oct would have gone to C2 at 5700m that day. 2 Sherpas went to C1 but did not stay there.


Ale, Tourism - 10 Oct 82

BC on 4 Oct 4250m
5 Oct started climb from southeast
C1 on 6 Oct 4900m in mid-Lirung Glacier.
Abandoned 7 Oct because of extreme danger from frequent avalanches.
To leave BC 9 or 10 Oct says message of 8 Oct from LO.


Chatrefou & Duvillier - 22 Sept 82

Route = SE Ridge, the most freqently used route, same as 1978 autumn Japanese expedition.

BC - 4700m
C1 - 5000m
C2 - 5700m
C3 - 6300m - 1st camp on ridge
C4 - c6800m light camp

2 days from C3 to top in final summit push. 10 members total, 3 now here, 7 arrive 26 Sept or later. Leave 28 Sept go via Trisuli Bazar, Betrawati, Trisuli River to Langtang Khola, past Langtang airfield to glacier south of Langtang Lirung. Arrive BC 5 Oct.

2 Sherpas above BC, but perhaps not above C1.
Medical oxygen only.