한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

Expedition of the Alpine Club of Chamonix

Dhaulagiri II · 1982 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

Le Garrec - 1 Nov 82

BC 3500m 22 Sept
C1 4800m 27 or 28 Sept
C2 5600m 3 Oct
C3 6100m 7 Oct
C4 6800m 19 Oct

21 Oct give up. Problem of snow making difficult to progress and brought avalanches which hit one member who had to stop climbing then.

Route = South Ridge
C4 to top could be quick with ice easy to climb but with snow was serious avalanche danger and had to give up.

No other accidents or frostbite
No Sherpas above base
No oxygen
KTM lodge now - all others arrive KTM 2 Nov
Le Garrec, team Louis


Sharma, Tourism - 1 Nov 82

Dhaulagiri II South Face

Abandoned 21 Oct
C4 6800m (date ?)
Several snowfalls made us to decide end of expedition - after 2 days left C2 5600m on 21 Oct.

C3 6100m 7 Oct
C2 5600m 3 Oct
C1 4800m 28 Sept


Imbert - 1 Sept 82

7 total members - leave KTM 7 Sept by road to Pokhara
14 days caravan to BC via Beru and up Myagdi Khola to 3600m
Lower BC at 3600m north of Puchhar - this camp for rest in bad weather
Upper BC altitude depends on snow conditions - maybe 4000m

Are more fixed camps; above this line bivs, 3 or 4 bivs depending on degree of acclimatization.

Route = direct South Ridge to summit never climbed successfully before, but thinks one Japanese expediiton tried it; thinks there is a direct South Ridge.

Arrive lower BC about 22 Sept. 1-1/2 months provisions, but hope reaach summit in 3-4 weeks from lower BC; must wait for acclimatization.

C1 = ABC from which no more fixed camps.
No Sherpas above upper BC unless sirdar goes, so not sure.

LBC - 3600m
UBC - 4000m (rough estimate)
ABC - 5500-6000m

Upper part of ridge could be difficult mixed rock and snow but don't really know.
Medical oxygen only.
Expedition Alpine Club of Chamonix.

  • 내부 원정 ID2028
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA282301
  • 대장Francois Imbert
  • 루트 (Route)S Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6800m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)

참가자 7명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Francois ImbertFranceLeader---
Michel BordetFranceClimber---
Vincent CouttetFranceClimber---
Hugues GeraudFranceExp Doctor---
Jean-Louis Le GarrecFranceClimber---
Didier MathurinFranceClimber---
Jean-Luc ThierryFranceClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1982 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198324702/Asia-Nepal-Dhaulagiri-II-Attempt · 1982 · 웹사이트 (5) ·