Expedition Manaslu 1982
Manaslu · 1982 · 가을 (3) · France
원정 개요
Abandoned East Ridge route and went to other expedition's NE Face route. Went to Col at 5600m and then ordered off by other's LO.
Balmat - 19 Oct 82
Put in C1 at 5600m and rope above it then in deep snow had not enough strength with small team on such big mountain requiring lot of fixed rope.
BC at 4400m on 10 Sept
C1 5600m on 19 Sept
High point 6200m on 22 Sept by Balmat, Claret Tournier and Thivierge then went over to other French Manaslu who said glad to have two teams join. Were friends and went to Naike Col at 5600m. Then other's LO apparently sent false message to KTM that others objected and official permission refused. No accident, frostbite or serious illness.
Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82
Abandoned attempt and left BC 8 Oct. Went to other Manaslu expedition's C1 on 28 Sept to climb their route, but others objected and LO also, so this expedition returned to our BC and quit.
Balmat & Thivierge - 29 Aug 82
Leave KTM 25 or 26 by road to Trisuli Bazar. 12 days to BC at 4500m.
Same East Ridge (or SE Ridge) route as Japanese women in 1974 and French in 1977; not yet successfully climbed which is why want this route.
2 friends camps above BC at 5700m and 6600m; above 6600m will be alpine-style with bivs. 4 days from C2 to top. Most difficult will be C2 to summit: steep and at high altitude, mixed snow and rock.
1 Sherpa above BC, maybe to summit: Mingma Sherpa went to summit of Annapurna I 1978 autumn with American women.
Oxygen medical only
Arrive BC 6 Sept, summit 1-15 Oct.
- 내부 원정 ID2027
- 원본 EXPIDMANA82301
- 대장Jean-Paul Balmat
- 루트 (Route)E Ridge (to 6200m)
- 최고 도달고도6200m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)
참가자 5명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jean-Paul Balmat | France | Leader | - | - | - |
| Jean-Franck Charlet | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gilles Claret Tournier | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Francois Dantoine | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Herve Thivierge | France | Climber | - | - | - |