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Expedition Manaslu 1982

Manaslu · 1982 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

Abandoned East Ridge route and went to other expedition's NE Face route. Went to Col at 5600m and then ordered off by other's LO.


Balmat - 19 Oct 82

Put in C1 at 5600m and rope above it then in deep snow had not enough strength with small team on such big mountain requiring lot of fixed rope.

BC at 4400m on 10 Sept
C1 5600m on 19 Sept

High point 6200m on 22 Sept by Balmat, Claret Tournier and Thivierge then went over to other French Manaslu who said glad to have two teams join. Were friends and went to Naike Col at 5600m. Then other's LO apparently sent false message to KTM that others objected and official permission refused. No accident, frostbite or serious illness.


Ale, Tourism - 15 Oct 82

Abandoned attempt and left BC 8 Oct. Went to other Manaslu expedition's C1 on 28 Sept to climb their route, but others objected and LO also, so this expedition returned to our BC and quit.


Balmat & Thivierge - 29 Aug 82

Leave KTM 25 or 26 by road to Trisuli Bazar. 12 days to BC at 4500m.

Same East Ridge (or SE Ridge) route as Japanese women in 1974 and French in 1977; not yet successfully climbed which is why want this route.

2 friends camps above BC at 5700m and 6600m; above 6600m will be alpine-style with bivs. 4 days from C2 to top. Most difficult will be C2 to summit: steep and at high altitude, mixed snow and rock.

1 Sherpa above BC, maybe to summit: Mingma Sherpa went to summit of Annapurna I 1978 autumn with American women.

Oxygen medical only
Arrive BC 6 Sept, summit 1-15 Oct.

  • 내부 원정 ID2027
  • 원본 EXPIDMANA82301
  • 대장Jean-Paul Balmat
  • 루트 (Route)E Ridge (to 6200m)
  • 최고 도달고도6200m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Jean-Paul BalmatFranceLeader---
Jean-Franck CharletFranceClimber---
Gilles Claret TournierFranceClimber---
Francois DantoineFranceClimber---
Herve ThiviergeFranceClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Balmat, Jean-Paul · 1982 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1982 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198323701/Asia-Nepal-Manaslu-East-Ridge-Attempt · 1982 · 웹사이트 (5) ·