원정 개요

High point at C3.

Divided into A and B teams above C2. 30 days in BC because of heavy snowfall after C2 established and difficult to reach C3 site. Team A were Akebu, Pemba Tashi, Ren Na, and Tshering Dorje. Unable to go above C3 because of deep snow - tried 4 times to go above C3. Many avalanches.

Expedition attempted "same route as Japanese, but followed ridge" - apparently did not use route suggested by Tanabe.

Team B high point of 7000m there was snow 1.90 meters deep and very soft - too much danger from avalanching to try climbing again.

13 May 96 - leader Samdrup said planned to leave Lhasa 25 Aug to go to BC, which they would reach after 1 week. Summit attempt to be around 30 Sept-2 Oct.

Difficult rock wall 200m high slowed progress above C1. This is where 350m of rope fixed.

Highest point (C3) reached by 4 members (Akebu, Ren Na, Tshering Dorje, Pemba Tashi) and 2 Tibetans high altitude porters recruited locally (Lhakpa and Norbu). 2 HAP remained at C3 for one week; 4 members stayed 3 days, descended to C2, then returned to C3 to check condition of route to C3, found very deep snow on route and immediately descended without sleeping again in C3.

Expedition had intended to follow 1995 spring Japanese route, but Lhasa TMA office insisted to Dou-Chang Shen from Lhasa they had been on West Ridge, so Dou thinks they probably did not climb Japanese route. Maybe they started up wrong route, were on West Ridge, completely different from Japanese.