원정 개요

BC slightly above glacier junction
C1 on snow to east of rock formation in Chago Glacier
C2 at center of glacier
C3 at Kukuczka shoulder.

From C3 tried to go directly to ridge (avoiding Col) but dangerous from avalanches and strong wind. Had made deposit about 20 Sept at 6800m but avalanche took it away. Turned back on 27 Sept because too much snow and wind; [Clavel] was going up to see conditions and found he could not go higher in these conditions. Weather changed within 4 days snowed continuously.

6 Oct tried to go up but could go only to 6300m and Bucella not well and Clavel and Angolo (Basques) to 7200m on 7th and same day down because bad snow conditions and climb finished.

At start of climb were 2 teams and stayed so till last few days.

Team did not get onto NW Ridge.