원정 개요

BC at normal site at glaciers' junction
Biv on NW Ridge route
Biv on NW Ridge route
Biv on West Face
High point on West Face.

Yamonoi to 6200m and back to BC on 8 Sept. 10 Sept up to 6500m biv and 11th to 6800m and to 6500m. 12 Sept to 6800m and down to BC; all this to acclimatize while TV team and Nagao taking photos near C1. 16th Sept Yamonoi went up West Face to 6700m to deposit supplies of equipment and back to BC. 21st Sept 1st attack for top but snow falling so turned back at 6000m.

2nd attack 24th Sept; left BC in afternoon and at bottom of wall waited till evening to try to climb face starting at 7:00 pm. 2:00 am 25th reached 6700m depot and biv. 25th 6:00 pm up and at 7400m at 9:00 pm rock (first rope) hit Yamanoi on head and despite helmet he felt pain in neck and chest and turned down to 6700m (arrived at midnight). 26th tried again but by time reached 7200m felt bad and abandoned climb. Avalanching on face; small snow avalanches and small rocks. Wants to return to face (in autumn season) part of face he climbed not technically difficult but had 13 kg food on his back in solo effort.