원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 on SW Ridge.
High point on face at top of SW Ridge.

Summit push 13 Oct from C3 at 3:00 am but snow deep, soft sugar and scary and when sun got onto snow at 9:00 am very serious possibility avalanching then and later during summit descent, so turned back and climb finished, since time had running out. "We turned back because of good judgement"; made camp for one night (11 Oct) at 6100m because ran out rope to fix on the route and had to go down to fetch more before continuing ascent.