원정 개요

BC at normal route's base
ABC at normal route's base from east side of North Col
High point on North Face.

Did no climbing. Kazi Sherpa of Indonesian Everest expedition had fixed the route and attacked Calonica's Sherpas to prevent others climbing it. Calonica had to go to KTM with flu before reaching BC and when arrived late at BC found out about Sherpas attack. Flew to Lhasa and arrived BC on 13 Sept. Gejo descended to BC 15 Sept and very sick with cerebral edema and Calonica brought him Nyalam; was really out of his mind and had to tied up at BC - so Calonica now had lost more time. Kokta had gone up 100-200m from ABC towards North Col but no real climbing experience and slow acclimatizer so went home. Now Kazi threatened Calonica as well as his Sherpas; appeared to be maniac-depressive. Calonica went to Sherpa to telephone TMA in Lhasa but this ineffective and so late now, Sherpas fearful and only Calonica and his 2 Sherpas left to climb. Calonica never went above ABC so no not to lose right to apply payment to TMA to attempt in later season. Wants to return next summer to climb Mustang Ata and thence to Everest direct to ski it in August-October.

12 Oct 96 - Henry Todd, who had long meeting with Calonica in KTM, explains Kazi's attack in Calonica's team: when Calonica was away, Kazi asked Calonica's Sherpas to carry loads when they were idle in his absence, they refused and quarrel resulted but no attack with knife - on his return to Everest, Calonica up berated Kazi and they also quarreled, but again no knife used.

26 Oct 96 - South African team not to believe anything Calonica's says; they saw no attacks, heard of nothing from other people.