원정 개요

BC at foot of Khumbu Icefall
C1 at top of Icefall
C2 at Western Cwm
C3 at beginning of North Pillar.

Climbed Scott's route. Heavy snowfall daily from 4th to 15th and avalanche danger great so had to wait for snow to stop. Arrived at C3 on 16th & went for top on 17th: only the two sumiters went for top. Left C3 at 2:30 am on 17th, on summit 1:30 pm; Ralf arrived C3 at 5:00 pm but Axel very slow in descent (due to altitude), got dark and snow started falling and no one knew where Axel was (Ralf only person in C3 that night and he tired and went to sleep in separate tent). 18th am Rackl with binoculars from C2 saw 30m from C3 something lying in snow - this was Axel, who had fallen and his hit his head. Axel brought to C2 on 18th, BC on 19th and KTM 20th. Left ankle and ribs broken and left fingers frostbitten.

No further attempt on Nuptse following fatal avalanche on 21 Sept which killed 3 people going to South Col.


Dujmovits - 26 Nov 96 (by phone)

He is being strongly criticized in Germany for not staying with Schloenvogt in descent (but no criticism from Schloenvogt). Schloenvogt was descending much more slowly, facing the mountain, where Dujmovits moving faster, facing out. They had reached top of pillar and there Schloenvogt agreed Dujmovits should go ahead - both were exhausted on summit. Dujmovits returned to C3, made hot water for Schloenvogt and left it in his tent, then fell asleep in his own tent. There was no one in C3 in support of them because plan had been for Dujmovits and Schloenvogt to fix ropes on 17th and go for top on 18th when 2 other members would move up to C3 in support. But on 17th weather was fine and they suddenly decided to go for summit alpine-style.