원정 개요

C1 at top of Khumbu Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col.

Every day snowing and every day avalanche, no good conditions. 1st big avalanche on Lhotse Face 8 Sept to C2; 21 Sept ice cornice fell and was very heavy and killed 2 Sherpas and Frenchman Bouchon.

3rd day of 1st week Oct from between SW Face and Geneva Spur. Decided to wait for one summit bid, watching weather conditions carefully. 9 Oct from C2 to C3 Choi and Shino and Son H-A support member in C3; 10 Oct 3 Sherpas (summiters) from C2 4:00 am and summit members from C3 at 10:00 am and 2:30 pm Sherpas to col and 2 members 3:00 pm. 10 Oct at 11:00 pm get up at C4 and after food, 5 men started up 2:00 am 11 Oct and arrived S Summit 10:00 am to 10:30 am (Kipa last not well) in waist-deep snow and 2 members making route (Sherpas say not to climb because deep snow and route making difficult). On top Choi at 12:45 pm; 12:50 Panuru and Dawa Tamang, 1:15 pm Kipa. Returned South Col 4:30 pm, 2 Koreans first, 4:45 pm Panuru and Dawa Tamang and Kipa (Kipa supported by Tamang) at 5:30 pm. 12 Oct 2 men and Panuru to BC while Kipa and Tamang stop C2 because Kipa still not in good condition.


Panuru Sherpa - 18 Aug 1997

In ascent of Everest last Oct with Koreans saw legs of a body (rest in snow) at about 8500m but no body above, i.e., at bottom of Hillary Step, where there was very deep snow. We climbed the Step on its left side with great difficulty, but "we had to reach summit" and did.