원정 개요

Wind destroyed 1 tent in C3 during night of 4 Oct. Gataoulin went to top 2nd time because he saw no reason to sit in ABC and is strong climber; even stronger wind on 14th.

4th Oct C3 by Misumi, Oya, Biamakhanov and Farafonov; Malikov helped them carry luggage and to get acclimatization and down. 1 tent destroyed but 4 others reached 7600m only on 5th and stopped by no visability and down; 6th Oct then 4 started up again, reached 8050m at first "bump." 2 did not get to top because Oya had not used oxygen and Biamakhanov his guide; Oya sat down at 8150m (30 mins from summit), Biamakhanov gave him oxygen but no reaction from Oya, who did not speak, weak pulse and almost in coma so could not breath oxygen deeply; 2 summiters returned from top and Oya carried for 5 hours to 60m from C3 and died (probably cerebral edema). Now all Japanese left expedition (2 not strong at all).

Valiev went only a bit above C1 while training Japanese clients.