원정 개요

Boukreev left Chinese BC on 17th carrying all his gear at 5:00 pm (Chinese time); 1:00 pm 18th arrive at others ABC and slept in our tent. 18th afternoon left for C1, where bivouacked again. 19th to C2 and left gear there and down to 5700m same day. 20th rested. 21st afternoon up to C1 (3:00 pm Nepal time), 22nd C2 & 23rd to top; reached top at same time as Perchine, Vinogradski and Sedussov of Russian team (12:00-1:00 pm) and down to C2 and slept there; 24th to 5700m.

Left ABC with Bachkirov team (28-29 Sept) to Xixabangma, where he again climbed independently as on Cho Oyu. Started up from ABC 2 hours before 4th with Bachkirov and visability very bad and stopped while Russians went on up, Next day very big avalanche and down to ABC 5th - waited for avalanche to stop. 7th morning up to C2; 8th to C3 and very strong wind and to C2; 9th to top alone (not to highest top - avalanche danger too great).

Boukreev was on Kazakh team's permit and travelled with them from KTM to Chinese BC, but from there was entirely independent of them carrying his own food, tent and other equipments - independent above ABC.