원정 개요

One BC for all 3 mountains, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABC's - climbed 3 mountains, simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts.

Bobaye: start of climb at 4300m on West Face: 31 Oct Humar, Jernej and 2 Sherpas from BC to depot/ABC on moraine at 4300m (not same place as 4300m shown in photo). Jernej and 2 Sherpas wanted to climb couloir on south side of West Face and around to East Face but reached only 4700m at bottom of couloir when one Sherpa sick and other didn't like snow, so attempt halted since Sherpas were carrying tents etc; this was on 1 Nov.

Humar alone on 1 Nov at 2:00 am started up, crossed glacier on hands & knees in deep snow here and fearful of crevasses; into small diagonal couloir when in not hurry because 80 degrees in couloir waterfall ice coming down; then traverse on West Face towards NW Ridge where wanted to biv but took too long in deep soft snow; at 3:00 pm made biv at 5500m under seracs but in ice cave; 2 Nov started 5:30 am, reached the NW Ridge and over on to NW Face's mixed terrain of ice and rock, arrived at rock band at about 6500m, then reached Col between Middle Summit and Main Summit to north of Middle Summit; finally on North Ridge for last 150 linear meters (30-40 vertical meters) to top at 1:00 pm; 2 Nov made photos and stayed 20 minutes in clear weather but wind blowing snow horizontally and very cold in descent came down West Pillar, not NW Face, across rock band and returned to West Face and slept again in 5500m biv (arrived at 4:00 pm); had taken biv tent, food for 2 days and stove up to top, not knowing how quickly could reach summit. Down to BC 3 Nov. Most difficult part was NW Face - in descent avoided waterfall's ice & sunshine so made different route in this area. His first solo climb.