원정 개요

Jost & Meznar left BC 31 Oct, rested and cooked at depot at about 4200m. Started from about 4200m at 6:00 pm and climbing began at 10:00 pm just above long crevasse at 4500m, climbed ice couloir: 2 hours to climb to 4800m in 50-degree couloir, then 9 hours for next 400m very steep (85 degree) section of couloir. Rested 4 hours after top of this couloir on rocks at 5500m on a ridge. After 3 more hours slept from 6:00 pm on 1 Nov at first biv at 5600m. Route was central couloir South/SW Face to ridge to left of top of central couloir. 2 Nov 10:00 am started up without tent because no place above for one, slept at 6300m, which reached at 6:00 pm. 3 Nov Jost left biv at 6:00 am and Meznar at 7:00 am. Meznar left small deposit at 6450m because planned to descend West Ridge (Japan 1972 spring route) and here probably joined Japanese route rear ridge and up to top at 9:50 am. 20 minutes on top in good weather and down to depot, rested and down West Ridge (briefly on North Face) and 5800m where found Japanese piton and rope, to biv at 8:00 pm at 4800m on rock below West Ridge's Col. 4 Nov to BC.