원정 개요

25 Sept summit party of 3 successful Italians and Ang Thile Sherpa going to C3 but stopped that night at North Col because of strong winds and next Ang Thile said he had frostbite and went down, while Italians went to top. 1st on summit on 27th were Ishikawa and 2 Sherpas (11:15 am) and then Italians, Korean + his Sherpa (Ngati). Italians started for top 200m lower than other going to top on 27th route not very difficult but very dangerous with enormous serac overhang in one place.

2 Oct Benedetti, Campagna, Martina and Carral left BC to return to KTM while other 5 remained to try for top; had arrived BC 24 Sept and plan to leave Nepal 29 Oct so will return to KTM maybe late as 28 Oct. Favre is leader of this party, whose jobs preventing their coming earlier while Martini and 2 others summiters finished only (Carral arrived with Favre party but left because of bronchitis).