원정 개요

BC at normal site from South Face BC
ABC just before glacier
Biv on glacier
C2 on small saddle on South Face
C3 on South Face
High point on South Face.

1 Oct no snow at ABC, 2 Oct 1/2-meter new snow fall and left ABC for BC. Very bad weather for few days. 10th Oct left gear at 2nd biv site on 10th Oct and down to BC. 18th to ABC, 19th to 6100m and 20th went to 6600m but didn't like danger of route: too many mushrooms so 21st to ABC and 22nd to BC and climb finished. Even glacier very dangerous.