원정 개요

BC at Larkya Glacier
C1 at foot of wall below ridge
C2 near Larkya Pass (for going round to northwest side).

Zintl and 4 members went for recce to see a route to North Ridge, but found it required rock pitons on only safe route and made another camp here. Then went round to northwest side of mountain through Larkya Pass, but here chest-deep snow in approach. Had a second camp at 4900m near Larkya Pass. Never really on the mountain: in better snow conditions could have climbed couloir to ridge; in conditions as they found them, needed rock pitons which did not have (for fixing 500m rope on rocky section between two dangerous couloirs).