원정 개요

BC at Sabje Khola
BC at glacier's northern end
C1 on North Face
C2 just below the Dome
C3 on NW Ridge.

After making BC, on 25th Oct went down to Hongde because of heavy snowfall and returned to lower BC on 31st, BC on 1 Nov and climb progressed steadily after that in good weather. Fixed from C1 to below C3; technically not difficult; only one crevasse - total rope fixed was 1700m because 800m rope fixed at start was lost in snowfall and had to be replaced. Ramaswamy didn't want to use oxygen but when he and Sherpas reached false summit at 7300m and Sherpa recommended because of wind to use oxygen (and 2 Sherpas tied on to him to balance him in face of strong wind); used oxygen from 7300m up to 7400m only and while descent approach to C3 because vomiting - frostbitten toes and finger while going up and down. Ramaswamy and 4 Sherpas left C3 on 10th Nov at 7:00 am reached summit at 3:05 pm and returned to C3 at 7:15 pm. Ramaswamy got to BC on 11th at 3:30 pm and was carried by Sherpas on 12th to Hongde, from where he was evacuated by helicopter to KTM on 13th.