원정 개요

ABC on moraine
C1 on glacier
C2 on ridge of South Face
C3 on South Face
C4 on South Face
C5 on South Face
C6 on South Face
C7 in snow cave on South Face.

20 Oct 3 members from C7 at 9:00 am, on top 4:10 pm and returned to C7 at 6:00 pm. Very bad weather; very windy and snow falling. 2 other members had started up from C7 but turned back because of extreme cold.

On 22nd 4 more members [Leontiev, Gorbenko, Koval and Kopytko] tried for top but not above C7 and down and climb finished.

"Super danger" from snow avalanche mushrooms; but not very difficult technically says Kovalev.
One snowstorm in Oct covered all tents, ropes, etc. and took a week to uncover them and reassemble them.

Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descnd to BC in greater snowstorm; many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps.

Took 6 days for 2nd summit party to descend to BC in greather snowstorm: many ropes destroyed in storm; had to carry tent down because couldn't find camps.