원정 개요

BC west of Bobaye, south of Api
Really no fixed camps (divided from start into 3 teams for 3 mountains and
climbed alpine-style with bivouacs).

One BC for all 3 mountain, but separate depots, which were used also to study routes but not really used as ABCs. Climbed 3 mountains simultaneously after 1 week's snowfall and wind delayed attempts.

Debelak, Meglic and Zerovnik from BC 31 Oct to depot at 4500m. 1 Nov started up at 3:30 am via right side of glacier found rock pyramid with icefall to right side so climbed up a small rock face further night and down it 200m to snow slope to first biv at 5300m at small plateau; actually climbed 80m above biv site to fix ice climbing rope in this section (where found 2 British pitons + British rope found later higher up). 2 Nov started 6:30 am in good weather following 1 Nov afternoon snowy and windy; traversed left from biv 250m and up small snow ridge to 5800m (1500-2000m line on distance) and biv here after 10 cm new snow fell and couldn't see route above. 3 Nov started 9:00 am after drying sleeping bags, tents and clothes in sun: up to right side of big seracs (a bit below which found British rope) and straight ahead up another serac and traverse right and reached biv at 2:00 pm at 6050m; knew there was no place for biv higher; this night Zerovnik sick (fever & chills) so on 4 Nov Debelek and Meglic started at 1:00 am, traversed crevasse is very cold wind and constant small avalanches (made breathing difficult); finally 300m snow to mixed snow-thin rock area up to Western plateau to top. Were on SE Face (which British in Autumn 1992 same route called South Face) to final 500 linear meters (20 vertical meters) up plateau. Descended same route moving quickly in strong wind and slept 4 Nov in 6050m biv where Zerovnik had stayed. 5 Nov to BC all 3 together.