원정 개요

From Kathmandu, the team flew to Nepalgunj where they were delayed for 24 hours owing to the fault of the helicopter's operators. The flight to Dunai was effected on 29th Sept. The trek route was as follows: Dunai-Tarakot-Musi Khola-Kalikot-Pangsi La-German BC (4600m)-French BC (4800m).

Heavy snow for two days put two feet of snow on the day the team crossed the Pangsi La en route to the German BC. Khoo and myself had an episode of HAPE. A day was lost here. A French team comprising 10 climbers (including 7 professional mountain guides) and 6 Sherpas eventually broke trail and helped considerably in establishing the path from BC to C2.

BC was established on 7 Oct and higher camps were quickly established up the snow covered moraines. C1 (5300m, 4 hours from BC uphill) established 8 Oct, C2 (5800m) was set up on 10 Oct, and C3 (6300m) on 12 Oct. It must be noted that on our arrival at BC, period of about 12 days of stable weather set in. However, between 13-14 Oct, a strong windstorm hit the peak with Mok, Robert, MB [Man Bahadur], Mingma at C3 and Khoo and myself [David Lim] at BC. Having successfully established the upper camps, the advance team retreated to C1 and BC to recuperate. The expedition doctor, Yogenthiran had to return to Kalikot after contracting a fever with asthmatic complications. He was accompanied by Krishna, the LO.

Khoo and I spent 2 nights at C2, one night at C3 and then went for the summit. We were joined by MB and Mingma that morning. We left C3 at 6:45 am on 16 Oct and in good weather conditions, summitted at about 12:45 pm. The snow was mixed; with deep crusted snow mixed with patches of firm wind-scoured snow. We ascended the East Face and descended partially down the East Ridge. MB and I returned to C3 and then to BC the following day. Mingma returned to C2 and then to BC the following day. Khoo leected to return to BC that day, arriving at 7 pm.

2 days later, Robert and MB returned to the peak and successfully summitted after and alpine-style push from BC on the 18th. Summiting on the 19th at noon and returning to BC on the same day (at about 7:30 pm).