원정 개요

BC at Myagdi Khola 2 hours NNE of Puchbar
Deposit at 4300m at right side of West Face
C2 at 5900m at right side of West Face
C3 at 6300m at right side of West Face
C4 at 6900m at right side of West Face.

2000m of difficulty between 4500m and 6500m on pillar towards South Ridge of W Face, very hard rock climbing. This is one of highest unclimbed lines on any mountain.

SW Pillar alpine-style team reached 6800m before weather turned bad. After 10th Oct, entire team concentrated on W Face route.

3 days without any rain, 10 other days half-day good weather, all other days from arrival to departure BC bad weather (rain/snow) plus strong wind towards end. Stopped climb on 26th because strong wind destroying all tents as 24th and 25th nights (so 26th party used snow cave at 7100m night before). On 26th all down in BC.

Meanwhile from 2 Oct to 12 Oct another party Bozik, Demjan and Rakoncaj went to 6800m as French SW Pillar in alpine-style, but Demjan had infected foot and weather bad so descended. From 14 Oct only 10 members in BC while 8 not so strong sent to KTM to save food. On face very hard rock climbing for 1600m.

24th Sept between C1 and C2 (about 5600m) Krizo fell 50m with snow and twisted knee, needing to be brought down. "Same avalanches with people" but no one injured.