원정 개요

Shohei Wada (member 80 Japanese Everest Exped) - 7 Jan 80

Japan Everest Expedition on North Spr 1980.

Chinese will participate only as helpers; load-carriers and will go only up to 7500m; will be 3 "sirdars" and 25 others, probably all Tibetans.

Will be 19 Japanese divided into 2 parties to attempt Everest by North Face and NE Ridge separately. No attempt Everest to meet on summit, no plan to ascend one route and descend other. Will use oxygen. Face party to start climbing 7 March, Ridge party on 14 March; summit 20 May.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 24 Aug 79

Sharma has just returned from visit to Japan where he met with JAC official and others. Japanese on Everest next year via Main Rongbuk Glacier and North Face. No Sherpas available so 30 Japanese of whom 20 = load carriers and 10 climbers; no Chinese climbers Sharma believes, but Mr Shih will be with expedition. Japanese asked permission to send baggage via Kodari because of cost from "mainland."

China: cost of Lhasa hotel = $250 per person; peak fee is double Nepal's fee for Everest; rules same as Nepal rules.

N Col-N Ridge Route:
BC(05/03,5150m),C1(16/03,5500m),C2(17/03,6000m),ABC(22/03,6500m),C4(25/03,7000m),
C5(06/04,7600m),C6(01/05,8000m),C7(02/05,8250m),Smt(03/05),Biv(03/05,8750m)

N Face Route:
BC(05/03,5150m),C1(09/03,5640m),ABC(25/03,6150m),C3(04/04,6900m),C4(18/04,7700m),
C5(20/04,8350m),Smt(10/05),Biv(10/05,8700m)