원정 개요

Buhler & Lopez - 11 May 80

Lopez no frostbite, Prado very mild.
Other members arrive KTM today.
All well (except Prado's mild frostbite), no accidents, no serious illnes.
Route was East Ridge.

BC was on Barun Glacier (near a lake near "c" on Schneider map). Then to east and north of point 6220m with C1 on snow glacier northwest of point 6220m at 5650m; then onto ridge west of Col which is west of point 6220m, along East Ridge to NE Face, up NE Face until it came out onto North Ridge at about 7000m, finally North Ridge to summit.

Pasang, Dr Morandeira and Blanchard climbed to point 6220m from northwest on 27 April to take photos of summit team.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 7 May 80

Summit from east side, above C3 on North Face.

On 27 April Started from C3 established 25 April at 6600m at 2:00 am. Reached top at 1:00 pm and stayed 1-1/2 hours (took photos), returned to C3 at 6:30 pm.
Summiters:
1) Jeramino Lopez Martinez, 1951
2) Javier Escartin Orus, 1949
3) Lorenzo Ortas Pont, 1953
4) Carlos Buhler, 1954

On 28 April summit left 1:30 am from C3 and reached top 6:50 am, on top 1 hour, returned to C3 at 10:00 am. By:
1) Gonzalo Prado Vallero, 1955
2) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa

Weather on top clear both days. All health good except Lopez and Prado have frostbitten toes. Expedition finished. Letter dated 30/15.


Lopez - 18 March 80

Baggage not yet in KTM.

Truck to Dharan and then walk to BC in about 15-18 days with 125 porters. Baruntse BC 1 day above American Makalu BC. BC at foot of East Face at about 4900m.

Route = NE Ridge, new route, over 2000m height with technical difficulties; will try use few ropes and 2-3 camps above BC with 1 at beginning of ridge and 2 more on ridge.

If weather good 10-20 days climbing (acclimatization during approach and some members recently on high mountains so retain some acclimatization).

2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje.

Oxygen medical only.


Letter from BC - April 29, 1980

On the 27th of April two rope teams of Javier Escartin, Jeronimo Lopez, Carlos Buhler and Lorenzo Ortas reached the summit of Baruntse (7220m). The next day a third rope team of Gonzalo Prado and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa also reached the summit.

The expedition followed the previously East Ridge consisting of difficulties in rock and ice between 6000 and 6800m.

Base camp was established at 5300m on April 7. We established three higher camps at 5600m, 6050m and 6600m.

All the members and Sherpas are back in base camp and in good health.