원정 개요

Lorente & Zabalate - 30 May 80

1st summit team reached South Summit, [Rosen, Gallardo,] Garayoa Aizcorbe and Nima Temba, 4th May, much wind.

2nd summit team only to South Col, again wind about 8 May, Erro Jauregui and Pemba Tsering.

3rd team Zabaleta and Pasang Temba [summited].

Below 8500m South Summit saw ice and blue backpack, no bodies, much snow.

On summit found tripod with rosary, crucifix and thermometer from Poles, nothing from Japanese biv, South Summit 14-15 May in crevasse 7:00 pm to 8:00 am. No bivy bag, no oxygen, no food, no drink; oxygen finished at Hillary Step. 8800m in descent at 5:00 pm Sherpa fell 6m with cornice between Hillary Step and South Summit. Zabaleta used ice axe to help in 2-hour struggle to get Pasang Temba up again.


Shailendra Raj Sharma & Shyam 21 May 80

Basques all Ok; all reached BC 19 May and start evacuating BC today.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 19 May 80

Basques have abandoned Everest attempt.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80

Dawa Dorje Sherpa fell into crevasse 3 pm yesterday in Icefall descent; fell 20-25m in crevasse; back injured and now in KTM hospital. He was alone when fell.

Another summit attempt probable.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

2 summiters arrived South Col 7:15 pm yesterday. Left Col 8:00 am today for C2;
their health good; no RA from helicopter.
Will be in BC tomorrow.
Next summit attempt maybe tomorrow, may be later.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 15 May 80

Yesterday's summiters couldn't reach emergency camp. Biv at South Summit at 8:30 pm. Oxygen finished; passed night without oxygen. In descent both slipped. Martin down on Tibet side and Pasang Temba pulled him up. This 7:00 am was radio between BC and summiters, but not good contact.

3 Sherpas left at 7:30 to South Summit from col with oxygen and radio batteries. At 11:00 these Sherpas radioed they could see 2 people coming down.

Lorente reached Col last night. Lorente visiting at South Col for summiters who expected arrive Col 5:00 pm. 2 Sherpas went up and met Martin and Pasang Temba at 1:00 pm today just little below South Summit; were descending slowly when Sherpa reached then and gave food drink and oxygen and then escorted them down. Their health is very good.

Another summit attempt scheduled tomorrow or day after tomorrow; leader will decide.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 14 May 80

Summit attempt by
(1) Dr. Juan Ignacio Lorente
(2) Martin Zabaleta
(3) Pasang Sherpa

3 started from South Col at 2:30 am; contact with summiters at 1 pm from South Summit. Lorente turned back at 8480m, where had emergency camp, because others ahead from start, then at top. 2 at summit 3:30 pm; on top 40 minutes and had lunch; weather very clear and could see much of Tibet but at BC snow fall from 2:00 pm. Since summit no further contact but planned to stay in emergency camp if late there. Lorente started to Col when summiters started down.

No information re further summit attempt.


Shailedra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 8 May 80

2nd attempt failed; only little above South Col and bad weather turned them back; went to C2 yesterday; by 2 members (names not known). After 3-4 days another attempt.


Yves Austin - 6 May 80

No attempts on Everest and Lhotse today because very strong wind at 7:00 am. Blowing snow plume from below So Col. Heavy snowfall in Everest area last night; no snow even at Baruntse BC (4200m =14,000 feet) this morning.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 5 May 80

3 Basque went up from South Col yesterday but failed to reach summit. Another party will try tomorrow.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

Summit attempt 4 or 5 May; why waiting don't know.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 28 April 80

Basques on Everest returned to Col on 19 April and made camp there.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 25 April 80

1 members and 2 Sherpas reached South Col 19 April but descended same day; route made but no camp occupied; planned summit attack end April.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 3 April 80

1 Sherpa injured in Icefall brought to KTM - not badly hurt.


Arrue & Lorente - 20 Feb 80

All 12 members now in KTM; leave Saturday, Sunday and Monday 25 Feb on scheduled flights to Lukla. Establish BC 20-25 March. Expedition one month acclimatization on Island Peak and other small peaks
C2 at about 6600m
C3 at 7200m
C4 at 8000m
Biv camp on Ridge at about 8500m for descent probably
Oxygen in climbing above 7500m and sleeping at Col
22 Sherpas above BC and sirdar is Pemba Tsering
12 in Icefall in addition
35 total (another sirdar at BC)

Want to give every member chance 1st summit, so need many Sherpas to carry lot of supplies to Col.

Andes 1 month training period this past summer with ascents of four peaks.