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Bahi & Perez - 25 May 80

Perez and Frontera tried for summit on 27 April only; reached 8150m found couloir without snow which meant 100m bare rock which would require fixed rope. Then after that rope was fixed and on 15 May 2nd attempt by 4 men: Perez, Pasang Nima, Ludwig and Sonam Girme; reached as follows:

Sonam Girme, 8000m
Ludwig, 8200m
Pasang Nima & Perez 8400m

This time much snow and very hard to make route at 8:00 pm, Pasang Nima oxygen finished.

This snow avalanched next day and then accident and C4 entirely carried away. From C2 members went up and found at bottom of face one Sherpa alive but badly injured. Other 3 men not hurt but had to come down without fixed rope. Accident happened when were crossing yellow band at about 7500m.

More avalanching destroyed C3 on 20 May; no one in it, Poles could see clearly. Then warm days and lot snowfall, so too dangerous to go on face. Sherpa morale hit by death; 6 members not still strong for Pillar route.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 22 May 80

Lhotse/Everest: abandoned both mountains; decided yesterday and leave BC 26 May. Shortage of time. No information regarding highest point reached or who made last attempt. Never went up after Sherpa buried at C1. Asked permission by South Pillar day after Poles climbed; permit
given.

Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80

Leave BC 26 May
Shortage of time
South Pillar difficult face; Col long


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - ? May 80

Pasang Nima, 21, died yesterday 8:50 pm at C1

2 Spaniards uninjured; to C1 with Pasang Nima; tried to take him to BC not impossible through Icefall; had hoped helicopter could go to C1.

Not yet decided about further summit attempts.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

Yesterday 2 members went on summit attempt but failed and returned C4. Avalanche from Lhotse icefall hit at 7600m while 2 Spaniards and Pasang Nima Sherpa descending from C4. Spaniards are safe but Sherpa seriously injured - neck cut. Both Spanish expeditions helping bring him down.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 May 80

27 April summit attempt by
Juan Frontera Torres, 1940
Javier Perez Gil, 1948

28 April same 2 tried again and again failed, descended to C2 that day. Others to BC on 28th. Future plans not given. All well.

Reason why failed or how high actually go not given.


Jordi Vinoly, Deputy Leader - 6 Feb 80

50 oxygen bottles for summiters sleeping in C4 and climbing above; also for making route in couloir and sleeping in C5.

About 16 HA Sherpas
Arrive BC about 20 March
7 members now in KTM; rest including leader arrive KTM 17 March.


Spaniards (Catalans) had permit for Lhotse and Everest but made no attempt on Everest. Leader was Cots.

Josep Montfort was the leader at the time of applying for permit in 1974, but did not come with the expedition.