원정 개요

Kurtyka - 28 May 80

All 4 members climbed face in 1 push but in very bad weather in 3 days; heavy snowfall, avalanches and spindrifts; bivouacs very poor (2nd biv only sitting).

1st biv 6450m 6-7 May
2nd biv 7100m 7-8 May
3nd biv 7650m 8-9 May

7650m highest point in this push then descended to BC at 4600m; 4-day rest, then to col and all 4 up NE Ridge to 7650m and then finished climb with variation of normal route (onto North Face) on 18 May with 2 Swiss and 2 Sherpas. Swiss used oxygen; Kurtyka's party used no oxygen, only 2 pitches led on face with rope, all rest unroped.

Had already gone to 7650m on NE Ridge in acclimatization end of April.
BC established 8 April.
C1 established 12 April at 5700m.
Snow cave on Ridge 6600m where slept in tent which carried with them at
7300m on ridge.
Face very fine, quite steep, real climbing.
No accidents or frostbite.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 27 May 80

Summit on 18 May via East Face by alpine-style by all 4 members, stayed on top from 12:30 to 12:45 pm. All Ok.

13 April crossed NE Col and reached 5700m
14 Arpil reached 6400m
17 April back to bottom of face
21 April reached 6600m
22 April reached 6900m but down to 5700m because of bad weather
25 April reached 7220m
06 May reached 7500m then bad weather
10+ May from 5700m up


MacIntyre & Kurtyka - 17 March 80

NE Col where both expeditions put camps.
Face expedition will have ABC here and only camp above BC at 5700m.
BC north of Dhaulagiri I; approach 4600m via Dhampus Pass if snow allows.
Route up to East Face emerges onto NE Ridge at 7800m.
First to attempt East Face expect Kurtyka's recce last year 400m up face.
Road to Pokhara and then up to 2 weeks to BC with 35 porters.
May acclimatise on North Face but probably on NE Ridge upto 7400m.
3 weeks to acclimatize before attempting face.
Face begins 5600m; at most 4 days on face as light as possible;
"everything depends on speed on that mountain."
No fixed ropes, no oxygen, no Sherpas above NE Col's ABC.