원정 개요

Malinowski - 25 May 80

C2 on SE Face of South Ridge of Manaslu (Ridge between Peak 29 and Manaslu) at 5700m. This face has couloir which tried to climb up and put C3 on ridge at about 6900m -7000m. Made 800m fixed rope up face which had rock and snow avalanches. Reached maximum altitude 6550m on 29 April were in BC 43 days with only 2 days no snow. Usually by noon for 3-5 hours and waist deep snow when trying climb face. Face not technically difficult, 3-4 days alpine difficulty.

C2 completely covered with snow avalanche one night when 4 men in it; another night 3 times had to spend all night removing 1-1/2m snow from tent.

1 May went down to BC and 9 days no chance to go up in heavy snow. 13 May started up again hoping to make C3 on ridge at about 6900-7000m and thence alpine-style to summit. Took 7 hours in C2 area to find tents in snow and all that night snowed and during day had been avalanche so decided much too dangerous with snow and avalanches. Had good luck with no accidents or serious frostbite.

Serac avalanche came 7 km down from another side (East Face) with such wind it broke tents at BC on 24 April. 17 May decided go down and stop climb. Maximum altitude 29 April reached by Kurczab, Smieszko, Bebak and Pemba Lama Sherpa.


Ferenski - 21 March 80

South Ridge = new route
From Pungen Glacier to South Col between Peak 29 and Manaslu 6900m.
Approach via Buri Gandaki, not to Trisuli Bazaar.
9 days to BC at 4000-4500m on glacier; site not sure since this 1st
expedition here.
4 or 5 camps - col camp maybe C3, then C4 7500m-7600m and perhaps finally a biv
before summit.
2 Sherpas above include 1 sirdar Rinzi Sherpa and Pemba
Oxygen medical only (6 bottles)
Most difficult parts: 600m below Col and 7500m and above rock
2000-2500m fixed rope on the 2 difficult parts
Advance party (3 members) leave KTM Sunday or Monday
Advance party to find BC location; deputy Leader with advance party