원정 개요

Saito & Komori - 1 May 80

Most difficult part = C2 to C3 ice face, difficult cutting steps in ice
No accidents frostbite or illness, very happy climbing
No attempt on Ganesh II or any other peak
Other 5 members trekking Gosainkund; arrive KTM 5 May
Route = NE Ridge across N Face (a snow face) to NW Ridge as per sketch.


Shailendra Raj Sharma Tourism - 1 May 80

Ganesh V all Japanese climbed

2nd summit success on 22 April by:
1) Norimasa Okabe
2) Kinichi Hamagichi, 1941, pathologist, Tokyo
3) Takeshi Shinohara, 1948, Ichikawa, Chiba
4) Saburo Saito, 1957
5) Zimba Zangbu
6) Pemba Tsering
7) Ang Tsering Dorje
8) Dorje

Went to summit at 9:00 [8:45] from C4 on north side. On top 1-1/2 hour, placed photos of Their Magesties and Japan and Nepal flags; each party sang their country's national anthem. All okay. Left BC 26 April.


Shailendra Raj Sharma - 25 April 80

C2 31 March 4950m
C3 14 April 5730m
C4 20 April 6250m

Summit via North Face on 21 April at 11:52 am and stayed 40 minutes, took photos, planted flags of Japanese Nepal and Jikei University by:

1) Tatsumi Sasaki, 1949 born, physician, Tokyo
2) Akihiko Kamori, 1958 born, physician, Tokyo
3) Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa, 28, Khumjung
4) Nima Tenzing, 34, Khumjung
5) Nima Nuru, 29, Pangboche

Plans 2nd attack on 22 April and leave BC 26 April. Thus no attack on Ganesh II almost fine except weather. All members well.


Nagao & Hamaguchi - 4 March 80

Ganesh V & II
All members now in KTM, arrived yesterday
Leave 7 March by road to Trisuli
1st attack Ganesh V

Approach route: Trisuli Bazaar, Trisuli River, Bhote Kosi to Syabrubesi, west via Chilime Khola which goes north to border and then along border to Sangeng Glacier.

BC at 4500m on Sangeng Glacier
route on Ganesh V = North Ridge - half is rock, half snow and ice.
4 (or 5) camps above BC with highest at about 6600m at top of hanging glacier.
Leave Trisuli Bazaar 8 March with 150 porters; 14 days to BC.
Summit about end of April
5 Sherpas above BC including 2 Nepalese members including Lhakpa Dorje.
Oxygen only for sleeping at C4.

Most difficult part of Ganesh V climb and very dangerous is hanging snow in glacier 5900-6600m with many crevasses. If cannot climb Ganesh V and have enough time will try Ganesh II. Would move BC further up Sangeng Glacier and pretty much repeat 1979 autumn route up North Face with 4 camps on Ganesh II.