원정 개요

Kikuchi - 1 May 80

All climbing on NE Ridge
C2 at 5600m 15 April
C3 at 6550m 17 April

Climbing stopped 19 April much snow and not enough equipment like rope; safety first is duty. Kokubu, Kozo Kudo and Hisao Kudo got above C3, but 50 metres only because much snow and crevasse. On 18 April East Face very dangerous and difficult because standing icefall, winds and crevasse zone so no climbing on face at all; all climbing on NE Ridge.

No accidents, frostbite, illness.

Put in 2000m fixed rope and needed 1000m because crevasse zone.

Pre-monsoon difficult, post-monsoon easy so request again Kang Guru post-monsoon via same route.


Kikuchi - 24 Feb 80

All arrive KTM 1 week ago; leave 28 Feb by road to Pokhara.
Route = East Face or NE Ridge; first try East Face which is new route.
Caravan from Pokhara go northeast to Marshyangdi River to Thanje; then to last
village Kharje (Kharelu) to BC at 4000-4500m. 2 weeks to BC.
3 or 4 camps above BC; summit mid April.
No Sherpas above BC
No oxygen except medical