원정 개요

Lamjung members - 25 May 80

C3 26 April
C4 12 May
Summit 13 May by Kazusa, Nishimura and Zambu [Norbu Jangbu]
Route = North Ridge (new route)

1 member fell 100m in snow avalanche but not seriously hurt; no other accidents, no frostbite. No more on top because food running out, snowfall 5-6 days. All arrived KTM yesterday and leader left yesterday.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 18 May 80

Satoshi Nishimura, 24, student Tokyo
Kikuo Kazusa, 31, Tokyo
Zambu Sherpa, 27 [Norbu Jangbu]

reached summit 13 May at 11:50. On top 1 hour and planted flags of Japan, Nepal and Hosei University. Started from C4 6400m at 6:00 am and returned to same camp at 3:00 pm. No more attempts because all members tired, but in good health.

Summiters in BC will be in BC 15 May and leave BC May 18 May, arrive KTM 25 May. Route from C3 (5700m) to C4 (steep and hazardous), very difficult but above C4 easy.


Ranjan Bhattacharya - 5 May 80

Lamjung member Ueno left expedition early because he injured his leg; is in KTM and will stay here until rest of expediiton arrives.


Kazusa & Hagiwara - 13 March 80

Route = North Ridge (new route)
Approach via Marshyangdi to Chame and Bhratang to BC at 4200m
4 camps above BC
Many avalanches; snow breaks every day; most match patterns from BC.

All but 1 member in KTM; deputy Leader in Bangkok with baggage; wait for baggage road to Dumre and caravan thence to Bhratang 8 days. Bhratang to BC 2 days but 8-10 days to move all loads.
40 days climbing mountain.

3 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Sange Sherpa.
1 Sherpa is woman Ang Rita who will go to Everest in autumn 1980.
Oxygen medical only