원정 개요

This mountain previously known as Ganesh III until re-surveyed in early 1990's.

Fukishima & Nakada - 20 May 80

C4 6300m 3 May
C5 6600m 6 May

Maximum altitude 6750m, a little snow peak by Fukishima, Yamamoto and Ang Phuri on 7 May; climbed to see route. C5 on ridge and above 6750m ridge steep knife-edge rock, looked very difficult. If we are going to get summit, 3 or 4 days more to make route. Had not enough pitans for fixing ropes on this part; had already climbed face needing many pitons.

Route = West Face of South Ridge to South Ridge

Approached via Yaru Khola to glacier which was long and difficult, then up big rock face which is West Face of South Ridge. C5 was only camp on this ridge; other camps on glacier or face took long time to reach ridge and little food left.

8 May decided no more going up.
2 Sherpas sick; 1 got toothache and left expedition
No accidents or frostbite


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 16 May 80

Abandoned 8 May after C4 3 May 6300m, C5 after 6 May 6600m.
Above C5 steep slope to summit and weather bad and decided to stop 8 May.
Left BC 10 May, arrive KTM 17 May.
All are well.


Otsu - 6 May 80

C3 established 5800m 3 weeks ago.
By end of April should have summit, they planned.


Nakada - 27 Feb 80

6 persons in KTM. 2 more arrive 2 March. Leave KTM 10 March by road to Trisuli. Caravan on 10 days march via Buri Gandaki to Yaru Khola on west side of Ganeshes to BC on Yaru Khola at about 3800m, then to col south of Ganesh II and South Ridge of Ganesh II.

4 above BC with C4 at 6500m
South Ridge only possible route; north ridges impossible
Arrive BC 22 or 23 March start climb 25-27 March; summit 5 May
KTM return 15 May
No HA Sherpas; this is joint expedition
No oxygen