원정 개요

Sakashita - 8 June 80

2 weeks from C4 to top for acclimatization because had no oxygen, otherwise dangerous to go above 8000m. 3 times acclimatized at 8000m. Followed route as planned (see photo in leaflet). Most difficult part of route technically was from 1st to 2nd ice fields. mixed rock and ice.

No accidents, serious illness or serious frostbite.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 1 June 80

Summit 17 May
Motomu Ohmiya, born 49, salesman, Tokyo
Toshitaka Sakano, born 44, doctor, Tokyo
Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche [Thamo?]
Dawa Norbu, 25

On top 5:30 pm and returned to last camp 10:00 pm; started 3:30 am. Masatsugu Konishi, leader, started out with them from last camp at 8000m, but did not reach top because of his health and returned to C4 [went to 8380m].


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 21 May 80

North Face Sangaku Doshikai Alpine Club
Summit 14 May by
1) Ryoichi Fukada, 37 Tokyo, engineer
2) Haruichi Kawamura, 32, salesman, Tokyo
3) Naoe Sakashita, mountaineer, 33, Tokyo
4) Shomi Suzuki, 26, Kamakura City, draftmen
5) Ang Phurba, 33, Khumjung

Started from assault camp at 8000m at 5:00 am; reached top 4:28 pm; all without oxygen.

2nd ascent party planned to climb 17 May:
1) Matasugu Konishi, leader, 41, salesman, Tokyo
2) Motomu Ohmiya, 30, salesman, Tokyo
3) Toshitaka Sakano, 35, medical doctor, Tokyo
4) Pemba Tsering, 36, Namche

No news of 1st party's return or 2nd party's attempt.


Sakashita - 5 Feb 80

All 7 climbers in KTM and reporter and 2 TV cameraman; 1 cameraman [Akutsu] hopes go above 8000m.

Leave KTM 11 Feb by 1 bus and 2 trucks all together to Dharan. Leave Dharan 14 Feb and reach BC (after acclimatization before BC) end of March. Arrive Ghunsa 28 Feb. 3 days arranging, acclimatization climbing, 20-22 days acclimatization, 3 days to BC.

BC at Pangpema 5050m
ABC at C2
5500m dump
C4 highest camp, 7900m-8000m, maybe only snow cave and not tents.
C1, C2 and C3 will be fixed camps with tents.

Route more direct up North Face then Scott's; Scotts went to North Col and thence ridge; Japanese not to ridge at all.

No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; only 6 bottles for medical, except high cameraman has 10 bottles and will use above 7500m or higher depending on his condition.

11 HA Sherpas including sirdar Ang Phurba (Scott's Sherpa).

Summit early May. 5 weeks climbing, depends on weather and members condition. Will have acclimatized to 6500m before reaching BC.