원정 개요

Okano & Hayama - 4 May 80

2 arrive KTM today, others when can get flight from SYB (Shyangboche).
No frostbite, no accident and no serious illness.
ABC 2 April 5000m
No more camps

5700m biv site 10 April
6100m biv site 18 April

Climbed in pairs: one pair making route, other moving loads; then next day changed over.

Summit 27 April by Okano and Masunaga, both who were on Thamserku last year. Masunaga on top 4:01 pm and Okano at 4:12 pm and biv that night on summit because so very steep, not possible reach 2nd bivouac and because wanted to stay there. Other 2 not to top because Dr Hayama not technically competent enough and Takehara tired out. Only 2 ice axes left after 2 broken making route. If 2 follow others takes more time.

More time to reach summit from start of climbing because had to wait for this when at least 2 members in good condition. Route not so difficult, says leader "Doug Scott can do it in 1 week," but Hayama thought "very steep everywhere."


Okano - 13 March 80

All in KTM now: 3 climbers and 1 doctor.
Leave KTM 17 March by air maybe to SYB.
Same route as 1978; maybe by camps same also with only bivouac above C1.
No Sherpas above BC.
BC -> summit 25 days.