원정 개요

Messner - 17 Sept 80

Everest solo:
All times = Peking times (CST) = 2:15 hours later than Nepal time (NST)

18th Aug 80: 2 hours to North Col from 6500m. Had been to Col before and then to 7800m, arrived 3:00 pm. Had left 5:00 am from 6500m. Fell into crevasse to Col 8m to bridge.

19th: 7800m up 100m and then traversed to right. Biv at 8200m with very small 16 kg tent (too small), special titanium ice axe and crampons, sleeping bag 1 kg mattress (insulite), food, cooker, gas, camera and film, extra 1 pair socks; carried from 7800m about 13 kg. Started 9:00 am - traversed until 150m before Great Couloir at 8200m about 3:00 pm.

20th: left everything except camera ice axe and crampons at 8200m at 8:00 am (was no sun but was light). Went into Great Couloir and up at about 8000m (1 hour). Quite steep but all snow. After that to ridge of another couloir. Up left of this ridge, not steep, covered with quite good dry snow mostly. Was quite warm and snow was melting but not sticking. On summit 3:15 or 3:20 pm (1:00 pm NST). Could see tripod when was only 30m from it, which not on summit. Very tired. Stayed there in cloudy weather with some blue sky briefly till 4:00 pm. Was even more exhausted than in 1978. On summit did not have sense of someone else there as did have slightly lower. To 8200m biv in 2 hours.

21st: left everything at 8200m about 7:30 am except spare glasses, ice axes and camera, crampons. Went little down Great Couloir and then diagonally to right to North Col, so tired it was risky to sit down because might not get up. Also concerned about crevasse below North Col. So went down from Col by different route. Arrived at 6500m at 11:00 am. Had been disoriented and came down on side of parts little last bit.


Messner - 23 Aug 80

Letter to Bobby Chettri:

Have just received Chinese permit for monsoon and Sept-Nov from Chinese side; will keep trying until succeed or time runs out. Will not come to Everest from Nepal side. If finished on Everest in time, will come to Lhotse.