원정 개요

BC at 3780m at Sabje Khola NNW of Annapurna IV, very near Spanish BC Basque
C1 at 4665m next to Basque C1
C2 at 5250m just 1/2 hour below Basques C2 on NW Buttress of Annapurna IV
C3 at 5880m towards top of NW Buttress, below Basque C3
C4 at 6340m beginning of NW Ridge of Annapurna IV
C5 at 6765m on NW Ridge of Annapurna IV
High point at ridge between Annapurna II and Annapurna IV.

Route to C1 normally yak pastures and moraine but now deep in snow that avalanched. 5 days snowstorm between establishing C1 and C2. C3 site reached 10th April, but stocked C2 before occupying C3 and bad weather also slowed progress. C4 placed in 3 different sites: 21,200 ft on 24th April, 20,800 ft on 29th and 100 yds away at same altitude next day. By end of April clear winds too strong to climb Annapurna II and requested Annapurna IV permit. 4th May reached ridge between Annapurna IV and Annapurna II to see rest of route to Annapurna II. Winds too strong for camps to stand. Annapurna IV permit denied by HMG. Now running out of fuel, never had 2 days in succession of good weather. Also getting tired; got everything off mountain in 2 days. Left BC 8th May.