원정 개요

Coudray - 3 Nov 80

15 days climbing on pillar between 30 Sept and 21 Oct because very difficult ice and rock, some overhang.

600m fixed ropes from low BC for Sherpa porters to ABC.
Fixed ropes 2500m from ABC to biv camp at 7300m.
Top of pillar = 7300m also.

High point 7500m by Beghin and Muller (above biv) on 23 Oct; from here to summit about 3 km.

Not to summit because winds and overhanging pillar; climb too difficult to carry loads to supply summit push.

Used no oxygen while climbing; feet very old cold as result (slight frostbite) but did not feel lost of strength or wits as result.


Salomez and Rayand

Success on pillar, very very steep, very difficult, but not possible to carry tents, etc; for summit attempt reached C5 7600m; for French, pillar success is enough; climbing reached 23 Oct top pillar.

3500m fixed rope on pillar which over 6000m; top pillar reached by Beghin, Coudray, Muller, Renaud, Salomez at different times.
23 Oct - Beghin, Muller and Salomez
24 Oct - Coudray and Renaud
One day in C4
Renaud some frostbite in toes, so helicopter evacuation.
Salomez Ok
Others left BC 28 Oct, here after 1 week


Coudray - 2 Sept 80

Same pillar as 1978, we came back now for success.

Pillar is changing; one of most difficult technically in world between 7000m to 8000m; this route is I think is again another kind of difficulty: very high altitude and technically difficult; a step or stride forward in this altitude with difficulty.

One member started approach march from Pokhara 23 Aug with 80 porters. 14 days to Myagdi Khola. Last BC at 3600m from which expedition will use as dump and make BC for climb where had C1 in 1978 at 5200m; he begins to transport baggage to new BC and make fixed rope between the two and perhaps has time to begin to climb on route above new BC to new C1 at previous C2.

C2 at old C3 at 6100m
C3 at 6500m
In 1978 was too long between 6100m to 7000m, too exhausting.
C4 just at foot of last part of pillar at 7000m biv on wall with hammock while
making route and going up.
C5 about 7600m

Main party leave KTM 3 Sept and Pokhara by road (way to Bhairava) and then walk 6-8 days to dump camp with porters carrying only 15 kg. Will acclimatize at new BC between 12 and 15 Sept. C1 and then back down after this first period will not return to C1 and to anxiously low camp except when tired or in bad weather. 5 Sherpas to carry the food up as the members move up.

Will have 3 weeks advance on 1978 expedition because have arrived earlier and BC is higher and not such long distance from C1. Also ropes are on the route to base of last steep face and can use these at first; will change rope and hammer pitons in more securely without having to carry pitons.

Think will arrive 1978 high-point end of Sept, one month earlier than in 1978. This leaves 15 days to reach summit before head winds begin to arrive. Plan to reach summit 15 Oct.

No oxygen for climbing or sleeping; have only medical bottles, but might use for climb if absolutely necessary. Now we know we can go without oxygen even in technical difficulties.