원정 개요

Klingendrath - 1 Nov 80

BC established at 12 Oct. Tried first direct route and put 1 camp 5850m and day after 3 friends decided to return to Italy (1 sick, others don't feel good and other problems), so leaves only Giberna and Klingendrath for SE Face.

After 2 days then go up again, but tent destroyed by lot of snow in previous 2 days. Could not find tent and supplies, so returned to BC.

Decided to try another route without fixed rope in pure alpine-style. Tried snow spur on East Face, not normal route however. Climbed free climbing 45 to 60 degrees slope 24 Oct and biv about 6200m. 25 Oct steeper and roped up, alternating lead, expect reach top in 2 days. At 6600m avalanche of powder snow and all came away: fell 20m with avalanche. Tony covered with snow very near crevasse and wall if Tony hadn't stopped at edge of crevasse, both 1000m further down. Other fell 30m and stopped by rope to Tony and felt pain in his back. Other could not climb back up to Tony because pain and deep snow and thought Tony dead in crevasses, so descended alone. Tony after 2 hours able get out of avalanche snow and descend. Both reached BC: Giberna at 7:00 pm and Tony at 9:00 pm. Climb finished.


Klingendrath - 27 Sept 80

Route = South Face direct, not same as French 1972 which was 1/2 on face on
East or SE Ridge.
BC at Gorak Shep.
No fixed camps, little fixed rope and no Sherpas above BC.
Leave KTM 2 or 3 Oct by air to Lukla (they hope) and are week to BC.
From BC to top and back = 20 days; including acclimatization = 25 days.