원정 개요

Frachey - 6 Nov 80

Too much snow and cold. After C4 decided very cold and all down. Then summit attempt by Luciano Colli and Favre on 26 Oct. Reached 7000-7050m, then a little frostbite from cold and go to C4 and next day to C2. Want to send up another team to make C5, but permit expired 31 Oct and now too late; was -37 degree C temperature.

4 members frostbite but not serious - no accidents.

BC - 4150m - 13 Oct
C1 - 4800m - 15 Oct
C2 - 5350m - 17 Oct
C3 - 6050m - 19 Oct
C4 - 6450m - 21 Oct

Route was SE Ridge to East Peak (Japanese route); this route quicker than West Ridge originally planned to climb.


Frachey via Simonetti - 30 Sept 80

Route = West Ridge, same as 1969 Italian
If conditions not good, then will try Central Peak from southwest.
Leave 2 Oct, fly to Pokhara and 3 Oct leave Pokhara for 15 days to BC.
20 days to try to climb peak and acclimatization.
BC above 4500m, 3 days north of Gurjikhani.
5 camps if climb West Ridge; if Central Peak, don't know how many camps.
6 Sherpas above BC
Oxygen medical only