원정 개요

Diemberger - 27 Oct 80

Wind was terrible. We should have tried to go to summit earlier or later; later was no wind. Would have surprised many people in Europe if Diemberger and Messner had gone to Lhotse summit together.

Mrs. Schmatz's body not seen.

Everest expedition was too big and too diverse in abilities, too disorganised a mess. Highest point was South Summit. Diemberger could have gone to Lhotse summit several times, but Santon said no, first Everest is to be scaled.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 17 Oct 80

Abandoned; no attempt today because of weather (wind) shortage of time.
1st since 1978 Everest unconquered
Today all retreated from C4, will not try Lhotse
Are booked out of Nepal 22 or 23 Oct to reach Venice 24th
BC will be evacuated 19th
Sergio Martini was on Col 5 nights and De Marchi 7 nights


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism - 16 Oct 80

Diemberger reached col yesterday. Masucci did not go up. No summit attempt because of high mist on col. If weather better tomorrow, 4 will try for top.

Santon left BC today for KTM; De Marchi at C4 tonight.


Shailendra Sharma, Tourism 15 Oct 80

Yesterday De Marchi and Martini reached South Summit, exhausted and too late to be on summit, so returned to South Col in evening. Today Martini left Col for C2; De Marchi still at col, his 6th night there.

Yesterday 2 Italians left C2 and reached C4 yesterday and will attempt tomorrow.

Today Diemberger and Italian Masucci left for C4 and if reach C4 today will go to top tomorrow.

Tomorrow's attempt by
1) Pietro Radin, 38, Vinceza employer
2) De Marchi
3) Almo Giambisi, 42, employer, Canazie
5) Kurt Diemberger
6) Alessanro Masucci, 37, St. Michele al Tagliamento


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80

Today reached 8600m. Dorje Sherpa (H-A porter) went with the 3 and got same frostbite and one of reasons why turned back. Weather good today. Trio may try again today or tomorrow.


Shailendra Raj Sharma, Tourism - 13 Oct 80

Summit team left C2 Thurs 9 Oct, arrivde C3.
C3 to C4 on Friday
No contact Saturday
"Rescue" by Sunday
2-3 Sherpas carrying oxygen and walkie-talkie; took oxygen to deposit camp
3 left Col for summit
Thais gone back to Thailand
14 Italians have left expedition
14 Nepalese have left including co-leader only Nima Norbu as Nepalese member.


Shailendra Sharma - 3 Sept 80

Everest BC 27 Aug at 5400m
C1 2 Sept at 6000m
by 5 Italians and 6 Nepalese members including Ang Maya Sherpa
Weather good, not much snow
One Italian member came to KTM yesterday and returns to expedition tomorrow.


Santon - 15 Aug 80

Will see what strength of team actually is and then decide whether to make two teams, are for Lhotse and other for Everest, or how to handle permits for both mountains.

Lhotse route = couloir on West Face

Santon, Capt. Karki, Diemberger, 1 woman member and journalist go to Lukla by Puma tomorrow.


Santon - 17 May 80

Everest 1980 autumn
30 Italian, 14 Nepalese (9 Sherpas) members including 4 Italian women and 3 Nepalese women. Led by Francesco Santon, 40

South Col route
C1 6100m
C2 6400m
C3 7200m
C4 8000m
C5 8500m

These will be Nepalese climbing as members not as porters for others.

Will take oxygen to all camps but try not to use, need not use; asking for Lhotse permit and send some members to its summit after Everest climbed.

Arrive 29 July, leave KTM in 3 groups with 1st groups leave 4 Aug BC. 1st Sept start climb. All baggage now in Lukla.

Kurt Diemberger arrive KTM 10 Aug and flies by helicopter.

23 Sherpas and 2 sirdars:
Lhakpa, Yalung Kang
Ang Dorje, Everest, 1978 summit


T. C. Pokharel - 20 Dec 78

Italian Leader for 1980 Everest with Nepalese is F. Santon, Club Italiano, Sezione de Dolo, leader of 1977 autumn Italian expedition to Annapurna III and deputy leader 1976 Italian Dhaulagiri I expedition.

Everest Sherpas:
Sirdars Lhakpa, Ang Dorje
HA Sherpas: 23


T. C. Pokharel - 5 Dec 78

NMA have decided to accept Italian Alpine Club, Rane as climbers on Everest with Nepalese Team Aut 1980. Have accepted in principle, but await Italians written agreement to terms before making announcement.

South Col route. Nepal Leader not yet chosen; probably 10 Nepalese and 20 Italians. Thinks Italian leader is Renato Moro.