원정 개요

Middle summit 3 Oct (Group I)
Greissl
Boening
Oberrauch

Trinkle died in fall from C5 (Group I).

Group II reached 6500m 14 Oct on Dutch route.


Friedrich - 27 Oct 80

Group II had no success; 6500m reached 14 Oct by Feier and Friedrich. They came down 15 Oct.

Group II route too dangerous because of avalanches. Had to make own route above 6000m over to Dutch route; too difficult for Sherpas. Friedrich and Feier went 3 times to fix ropes and never made new C3. Party too small and too much danger. Great avalanche came 1 hour after other 3 members came down icefall after minor accident.


Oberrauch & Wildemann - 18 Oct 80

Bauer, Helmut Daum, Joerg Daum, Feier and Friedrich (and doctor) stayed on to try to climb while 5 others turned back with Group II on 11th. Did not try to climb at all beyond C2 where looked at wall. Group II had arrived at BC on 4 Oct where news came of Trinkle's death, frostbite and avalanches.

5 were trying to go on up where Group I left BC but avalanche had destroyed fixed-ropes and they had job of replacing them.

When Group I was at Jomsom, Group II's mailrunner came and said all Group II were in BC and wanted porters about 20 Oct. Group doesn't know why and whether they had gotten high.

Wildemann has slight frostbite from 4 Oct when had to stand much of time while getting Greissl down. Oberrauch none at all.

Trinkle fell while he and Wildermann were helping down Greissl. Maybe his crampon became loose or caught on his trousers: don't know what happened but Wildemann saw him fall. Trinkle came from C4 to above C5 on 3 Oct. He was very strong but on 4 Oct was tired.


Greissl - 10 Oct 80

Climbed unconquered middle summit 8050m at 19:00 hours; not to main summit - this was on plan.

2nd group plans to go to main summit.

Lufthansa to Munich and to specialists hospital there.
Tried to go to main summit - got to 7900m then deep snow and was alone.


Greissl ex-helicopter - 10 Oct 80

Absolutely silly which can happen on any mountain. Wilfried Trinkle died 4 Oct at C5 at 7100m. Slipped at 8:00-8:30 am, fell on 30% slope (something happened to him); fell 400m vertically. Saw body but could not reach him.

Summit: Boening
Greissl
Heinz Oberauch

On 3 Oct in evening, not together, between 18:00 and 19:00 hours; stayed short time on top, went down in dark. "Perhaps tried too modern boots," plastic with thermal shoes but not really thermal and you feel nothing.

Frostbite not so bad. Greissl nearly all too and fingers right hand. Boening with better boots one foot both hands. Started from C5 at 8:00 am. Stopped at 7500m in night. Oberrauch reached C5 2:00 am 4 Oct, Greissl and Boening at 6:00-7:00 am. Had no real biv and stopped several places really no sleep at all.

Good but cold on summit.

Henning Woehl came to help Greissl and Boening because the frostbite.
Group now in C2; reached BC about 4 Oct; all camps standing.


Several members - 22 Sept 80

Group II
Leave KTM tomorrow and arrive BC 3 or 4 Oct.
Same route as Group I and same Sherpas.
Summit end Oct = 4 weeks climbing.

Have come as Group II because would be too many people altogether. Combining both groups and this saves time and money.


Greissl & Boening - 2 Sept 80

Bechler left KTM 26 Aug with 100 porters; all others leave today.
Route = North Face, perhaps Dutch route, perhaps in upper part Spanish route to east. Definitely not French route which is too dangerous.

BC established 12-15 Sept.

5 or 6 camps above BC; 2 before face, 3 maybe 4 up ridge, highest 7400m.
8 Sherpas above BC; sirdar is Pasang Temba.